"PICTURESQUE NORWOOD 1907 - 08"

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My aim is to share Primary material from my own collection, or gather material already on the web.

With that aim, and not to appear as an expert, I bring you Picturesque Norwood 1907 - 8. "Containing over 60 photographic views of the neighbourhood."

In presenting this volume to the Public, the Publisher desires to bring before his Readers, by means of Photography, some of the many beauties and advantages of our charming neighbourhood. In doing this he has had occasion to ask the assistance of many of the more prominent inhhabitants, and takes this opportunity of thanking them for the courteous manner with which he has been recieved, and for the numerous photographs supplied; also to Arthur A. Saward, Esq., for the permission to publish his Lecture entitled "Reminiscences of Norwood."

To save on bandwidth I'm going to show the rest of the text as transcribed.

Many of the pictures referred to by the Lecturer are printed in this book.

But not all !

REMINISCENCES OF NORWOOD.

Many of the pictures referred to by the lecturer are printed in this book.

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.

I think I cannot do better than commence the description of this unique exhibition of pictures, comprising some seventy lantern slides, than by showing you Roque’s Map of the Great North Wood and neighbourhood, published in 1745. It was called North Wood to distinguish it from, at that time, the vast South Wood, the Weald of Surrey, Sussex and Kent, and also as being North of Croydon, the only town of any importance near London on this side. Norwood derives its name from the North Wood: and West or Lower Norwood, as it used to be called, was the original village. The Manor of Northwood appears to have been first mentioned in 1287. In the reign of Edward III. (1327 - 77) it came into the possession of the Whitehorse family. The earliest mention of the present spelling of Norwood appears to have been by Daniel Defoe, - the author of the world known book “Robinson Crusoe,” who lived for some years at Tooting – in his published work the “Journal of the Plague Year,” in 1722.

Even down to so late as 1838 this district of Norwood is described as being common, covered with oak woods, scrub and furze, with occasional patches of cultivated land, the inhabitants being a few farmers, labourers, and wandering gypsies – the latter spoke of the inhabitants as “house dwellers.”

How thinly populated, even in 1849, Sydenham and Anerley were, the following true incident shows –

A Mr Leach, of Croydon, after retiring from business, was fond of wandering about the locality, gathering wild flowers, ferns berries, &c. In November of that year there was a frost and a heavy fall of snow. Mr Leach one morning at this time (with his usual small basket, for the specimens he gathered, on his arm) lef his home and was traced to Anerley. Since 1849 he has never been heard of, nor his body discovered, notwithstanding that for days careful search was made all around this neighbourhood and the numerous ponds examined when the thaw came. His wife who lived for 30 years afterwards, never knew whether she was a widow or not.

That this district, whatever its contour now, was submerged by the ocean, is proved by the fact that deep under Norwood Hill is a bed of petrified oysters; also in excavation of the railway tunnel under Sydenham Hill marine fossils were abundantly found.

The Great North Wood was in its widest portion some three miles in length; and the Crystal Palace stand upon a portion of the wood I indicate upon the map; and Upper Norwood, upon the wooded plateau to the south of same.

You will notice how the names of some of the local places have been changed, and also that the roads have different appellations or different spellings. Brixton Causeway Hill (now Brixton Hill); Crocksed Lane (Croxted Road); Oak of Arnon (Honor Oak); Perry’s Low (Perry Vale); Elms End (Elmers End); Bewly (Beaulah) and others. In 1627 Sydenham was known as Sippenham,” and in 1658 Penge was called “Pensegreen”; and Anerley is stated to be derived from a local Scotchman describing to a friend where he resided, that it was the £ainly hoose” in that part of Penge.

On behalf of the Hon Secretary, Mr. Edwin Davies, and myself, I desire here to thank the following ladies and gentlemen for the assistance they have rendered to us in the preparation for this evenings entertainment, viz; Miss Arding, Miss E. Cooper, Mrs. Prime, Sir Ernest Tritton, Dr. Eccles, Dr. Gandy, Dr. Campbell, Messieurs T. A. Crook, Casseli, Petter & Galpin, W. Farmer, Neves & Biscoe, W. C. Nicholls, F. Orfeur, J. A. Squire, F. Stevens, W. Taylor, E, Wheeler, Simmons & Sons, and other Friends.

In order that my audience may be able to clearly follow the description and locality of the pictures that I have the pleasure to show, I make as my starting place the old “White Swan” Public House, and will ask you to accompany me on a circular rambling tour, consecutively as I can make it, round the whole district comprised in our reminiscences. If any repetition occurs of what has been so ably told by colleaugues who have spoken tonight, I trust you will forgive me, for in my portion I have necessarily to cover much of the ground that has been so familiar to them.

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The picture before you shows the old “White Swan” as it stood in 1883 at the corner of Westow Hill and Crystal Palace Parade. It was built upon the site of a smithy kept by a Mr. Adams, and was within a few yards of the celebrated ancient tree known as “The Vicars Oak,” which marked on the spot where the four parishes of Lambeth, Camberwell, Battersea and Croydon meet. Mention of this famous “Vicars Oak” often occurs in records of 200 or 300 years ago. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a parish account, dated 1583, states

When we went on our perambulation at Vicar’s Oke in Rogation week – 2s 6d.
Item for drinking the same day – 6d.
1n 1584 going our perambulation to Vicar’s Oke, Churchwardens and other honeste men of the parish – 2s 6d.

In those days of beating or bumping the boundaries expenses were evidently controlled by “the Moderates,” but we find that outlays became afterwards more lavish, evidently the “Progressives” had then attained power, for in 1635 the perambulation cost £3 8s 6d., and in 1704 one item states that no less than a sum of 8 was paid for 100 lbs of cheese spent at the Vicars Oke.

The next slide shows the “White Swan” as we see it today, and the three light central gas standard around which the men are gathered marks in those days the site of the Vicars Oke and the parish boundary carved in the pavement surrounding it.

Proceeding into Church Road and looking on the left is the vacant site where "Cintra" stood and nearby the old house where Dr. Haughton now resides (No. 3) which house my father, before I was born, took one year as a summer residence and my mother found there was no water obtainable on the premises but that every drop had to be purchased outside. Upon the right hand side, a little further on, we come to a small turning known as Stoney Lane” and in it we still find these quaint cottages over 100 years old with their rustic gardens, porches and palings.

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Then in Belvedere Road we have “Grove Terrace,” dating back to 1840 -41, erected by the Fellowship Porters Benevolent Institution, and intended as almshouses for Stevedores. It is rumoured that the late Prince Consort laid in June 1841, a memorial stone but the latter cannot now be found, and the fact remains, as the lawyers says, that nevertheless notwithstanding, the cottages were never occupied as almshouses but private tenements. Close by is the “Alma” Public House, half of which is stated to stand in the hamlet or parish of Penge and half in the borough of Croydon. The license however is granted through the authorities of the first named parish.

In the angle of Belvedere Road and Church Road is the old wooden cottage known as 90 and 92 Church Road. The cottage is contemporary with the old “White Hart” public house and is presumed to have been the jobmaster’s dwelling in connection therewith. Curiously enough part of it is still occupied by a job-master.

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A picture of the old “White Hart,” then the second best hotel in the hamlet. In 1858 it was described as a wooden structure, ground and one storey high, with chains and posts in front, and in front of all a pump from which water was drawn, (the well being in the Tea Garden near,) and dispensed to the inhabitants at so much a pail, &c.; from this source doubtless my mother purchased her supply for the household rewuirments. When the water supply reached Norwood the pump naturally went out of use, but until only a few years back it remained in situ hidden by an advertisement triangle which many of us present will recollect; a triangular piece of pavement still marks the spot. Belonging to the White Hart, but on the opposite side of the road, on the present site of Nos. 55 to 61, Church Road, were Tea Gardens, entered by an arch formed of the jaws of a whale. The gardens were surrounded by trees and arbours and had a bowling green in the centre. The winners of the Thames Watermans Doggett Coat and Badge, as well as gallants, were wont to make the White Hart and the gradens a great place of resort.

A view of the White Hart as seen today. A part of the old wooden structure, formerly used as the Assembly Rooms, still remains attached thereto, and is now used as a Billiard Room.

Continuing along the left-hand side of Church Road, passing Sylvan Hill, from which a streamlet (starting from from the field below All Saints Vicarage) used to flow down to Penge Wood. We, just before reaching South Norwood Hill, formerly known as Beggars Hill, come across, in the grounds of Beaulieu and Hazelwood, some of the forest trees that fromed a portion of the old North Wood. Through the kindness of Miss Cooper I am able to present to you three excellent present day views of this old wood.

Trees and undergrowth.
A glade of forest trees
A sylvan peep in the wood.

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At the extreme end of Church Road on the right hand side, stands All Saints Church erected in 1827 the second oldest church in the district. It was first opened as a chapel of ease, and the Reverend E. Harden M.A. was then in charge. Upon his death the Rev James Watson became vicar; and the living is now held by the Rev W. B. Taylor who has been such a friend to this society and whom we all respect. It was at this church that the late Emperor Frederick of Germany who married our then Princess Royal attended when residing at the Queens Hotel during the summer of 1887. It is here also that Mr. H Penny who has given you his reminiscences tonight still holds the office of sexton and I presume clerk the offices being combined. I have just heard that a candidate for the post of sexton stated that one of his best qualifications was that he was sure he would be able to make the inhabitants as comfortable as possible. From the very cheery manner in which Mr. Penny has given us tonight, his reminiscences, I think he before obtaining his sextonship must also have pleased the same enticing disposition.

Talking of the office of clerk, as it has now become extinct, I think as Croydon is not very far distant I will relate a personal reminiscence respecting the clerk of ST. James Church Croydon, the then incumbent Rev W. Watson being a brother of the All Saints vicar. In 1860 and for some years after, I used to attend St James church and as usual the clerk gave out the psalms etc. I especially remember one which he announced in the following manner – the roman numerals then usually printed being apparently too much for him. "Let us all sing to hour praise hand glory the hell the hex and the two eye Psalm." Having said so much he proceeded the read the first two lines "Has pants the art for cooling streams, When heated in the chase."

I see that very recently the Rev P. H. Ditchfield has published a most interesting work upon the parish clerk and I cannot refrain from mentioning one of the anecdoteS. A certain venerable old man was recently asked by a stranger visiting a country church what his occupation was, and this was the response: " I hardly know what I be, first the Vicar he called me the Clerk, then another came and he called me Virgin. The last Vicar said I be the Christian, and now I be Clerk again." The poor old man had evidently confounded "Virgin" for Verger, and "Christian" for Sacristan.

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On Beulah Hill near the church is the house No 13 known as "Grange Mount," where the far famed tenor Sim Reeves resided and which house is now the residence of the President of this society Sir W. P. Treloar J.P. the present Lord Mayor of London. The Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, the celebrated Baptist minister resided at "Westwood" No. 49; a little further down and close by at 77a is Mr. W. G. Pringle’s well known nursery.

A little above "Westwood" is the turning called Spa Hill. This is a very ancient roadway formerly known as "Leather Bottel Lane" from an old public house of the same name therein. This lane seperated No. 41 and 43 the present Beulah Spa public house and the Beulah Spa Residential Hotel from Nos 37 and 39, privates residences, respectively known as "The Lawns" and "Tivoli Lodge." It was in the rear of these latter houses that the famous Beluah Spa Gardens, consisting of about 30 acres, existed, and in which was the famous mineral spring long resorted to by country folk for its medicinal properties. When Mr. John Davidson Smith became the owner, he after laying out the grounds and plantations under the guidance of Mr. Decimus Burton, the architect and Lady Essex opened them to the public on the 1st August 1831. "Tivoli Lodge," which still possess a room of the Tudor period, being then a sort of rustic cottage. At the two little windows, one on each side of the porch, the entrance fees were paid. Near the entrance was a prominent notice board stating that “No servants in livery nor dogs were admitted.”

The picture before you, taken from an old engraving, of 1830, shows you a portion of these well known gardens. The lane seen on the left is "Leather Bottel Lane," and the octagonal building in the centre was the reading, confectionary, and refreshment room. My audience will be surprised to hear that a portion of this building is still in existence. It is likely however shortly to be pulled down. Through the kindness of Mr. Herbert Price, the present owner of this beautiful estate, I was allowed recently to view and obtain this photograph of the building; and I can only express a hope that Mr. Price will be able to see his way to spare the destruction of this locally historical relic. The building was formerly thatched. In recent years owing to decay, the refreshment room had to be rebuilt and unfortunately the tariff upon its walls for the meals obtainiable became destroyed in the reconstruction.

The Spa Well was in a detched thatched hut near by, erected somewhat on the shape of an Indian Wigwam, as shewn in the engraving of 1843. In the centre of the hut the water rose to a height of 15 feet, falling amidst a grotto of rocks. The well remains, its water when I tasted it twelve days ago being pure and bright and still imbued with sulpahet of magnesia. Immediately opposite the Spa buildings stood an orchestra at which a military band played daily. Dancing, fortune telling, minstrel singing &c., &c., formed part of the amusements; and in the grounds a camera obscura, a maze or wilderness, a rosary, a circus ring and archery grounds. One of the cheif fortune tellers was a Mrs. Cooper, a descendant of Margaret Finch, the Gypsy Queen. This Mrs. Cooper had sixteen children and she named them all after flowers, such as Daisy, Heliotrope, Rose, Mignonette &c. A service of stag coaches starting from Charing Cross ran three times daily to and from the Spa, fare outside 1/3, inside 2/6. In addition, the three penny post delivered letters three times a day and carried letters to London twice a day.

This is a view of the present day aspect of the woods that formed part of the grounds. Lovers of that day meandered though its winding paths plighting soft vows, which, oft' as now were never kept and which at the fetes for which the spa was famous sometimes led to jealousy and combat between jealous swains, such as the celebrated caricature artist, George cruickshank, has in the picture here depicted as taking place at Beaulah Spa, in 1840, on the occasion of the Fete given by the Lady Patroness of the British Washer-woman's Orphans' Home, at which fete Mr. Orlando Crump and the Baron Chicot de Punter were rival for the hand of Jemimarann; the affecting collapse of Jemimarann on one side , and the Baron on the other, must naturally appeal to your deepest feelings.

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Tracing our way through the modern Harold and Benedictine Roads, and so onto Westow Street, we skirt the grounds of the Royal Normal College and Academy of Music for the Blind, that most inestimable institution, which, owing to the forethought and exertions of the esteemed Principal, Dr. F. J. Campbell, is not only one of the most useful, but also a college that Norwood is rightly proud of . It was established to provide the Blind, of both sexes, with a thorough general musical and technical education, and so prepare them to maintain themselves. So well has the supervision and instruction been carried out, that latterly 90 per cent of the pupils have been enabled to do so. It was a white-letter day, not only to the blind but to England, when, in 1870, the late Dr. armitage met out own Dr. Campbell, both curiously enough practically affected with blindness. Their exertions resulted in the opening on the 1st March, 1872, of the first School (three small houses in Paxton Terrace, Anerley Hill,) here shewn. Greater accommadation soon being necessary, "The Mount," Westow street, with its six acres of ground, was acquired in 1873, and opened by the Princess Louise in 1877; and finally, through the liberality of the Committee of the Gardner Trust, the College was able to establish the Primary and Technical Schools, and erect the Hall in which we are gathered. A photograph of the exterior, so abley taken for Mr. F. Stephens, is here shewn. The College opened with two pupils, in Paxton Terrace, and now has some 150 students. Time does not permit me to say all I should like to say about this Instituion, but I heartily utter the appeal of the students of this college, when they say, "Help us, so that we can maintain ourselves." One way you can all help, and that is by taking tickets for the concert arranged by Dr. Campbell to be held here on the 25th of this month, under the auspices of our Society, the proceeds of which will be given to the Royal Normal College.

The history of what is now The Royal National College for the Blind http://www.rncb.ac.uk/about-history.php

Our peregrination along Westow Street takes us to the corner of Carbery Road. In 1830 this was the sight (taken from Mr. J. A. Squire’s excellent picture) that you would have seen. Mr. Carbery’s butcher’s shop, with the worthy butcher himself outside and the low cottages with gardens in front adjoining, and this is the sight last month, showing the present shops, the postal sorting office, the chief Norwood post office and our worthy confrere Mr. W. C. Nicholl’s shop beyond. From the same spot from which the last was taken we turn to the left and show still a bit of old Norwood in No 7, 9 and 11, Westow street.

Only a short space at the rear of these houses we find ourselves at the Woodman public house Westow Hill. A picture of the old house is now before you. It was the oldest hotel in the district, formely standing in the midst of fields, with a primitive windmill close by. It was an old fashioned country inn lying about 20 or 30 yeards back from the street, with a drive and horse trough in front, and the sign post bore a painting of a woodman with a faggot on his shoulder and a dog walking by his side. Its doorstep was stated to be at a level with the top of the cross of St. Paul’s Cathedral. In addition to tea gardens it possessed two skittle grounds, one of which was reserved for gentle folks. Also before the railway was opened this was the chief posting house for the four in hands that ran daily in the neighbourhood.

The "Woodman" and Westow Hill at the present time.

Another peep of old Norwood, Mr. Prime’s residence, "Elim Lodge," 21 Westow Hill.

An old view of the "Holly Bush" at the corner of Westow Street and Westow Hill. The building is much the same as today only a portion of the left side is now patitioned off and let to a tailor. Adjoining you will notice a small butcher's shop. This in 1870 was rebuilt and heightened and is still a butchers shop, Mr. Covell, the present occupier, residing here since 1876. On the righthand side of the picture can be seen the ground storey wheelrights forge in Westow Street in which Mr. E. Wheeler has been so much interested. Needless to say the latter premises have been rebuilt, and are now occupied by Mr. Shepherd.

Turning at this cross-road we look down Gipsy Hill, so named after the gipsies who lived n the woods and commons, then the only feature to be seen. Of the Gipsies I will speak further on; meanwhile, you will notice Christ Church, at the corner of Highland Road, the present building, of which the Rev R. C. Joynt is the vicar, being erected in 1866 replacing an iron structure opened in 1862. The grounds of the "Highlands," on the opposite side of Highland Road was formerly occupied as the California Tea Gardens.

Continuing our progress Through Central Hill, we come to the oldest Nonconformist Chapel in the disrict. It was erected in 1852 and the little old-fashioned cottage attached, seen in the picture, was for many years in the occupation of Mr. and Mrs. Crabb, the chapel keepers, and was only pulled down when Gatestone Road was made. This view shows the modern aspect of the chapel after its enlargement in 1861. The well-known preacher, the Rev. S. A. Tipple has conducted services there since 1856.

Gatestone Road. Norwood.

A little further down the road, at No. 57, we have another peep of an old Norwood residence, "Effingham Lodge." At this house, I am told, Madame Tussaud, the proprietor of the celebrated wax works, once resided. At No. 81, is Essex Lodge. This formerly was the hunting lodge of the Earl of Essex, who married Kitty Clive, the actress.

Upon the other side of Central Hill, viz, from Gipsy Hill to Salters Hill, (the latter being formerly known as Hamilton Hill,) we learn from a series of articles called "Bygone Days in Norwood," written and published in the Norwood Review, in 1888, by an old resident, Mr. William Farmer, the editor, that about the middle of that century it was entirely a breezy common with only one or two houses upon it. the principal one being "Bloomfield," originally occupied by a Mr. Hamilton, then by the late Mr. Joseph Tritton, and now the residence of Sir. C. E. Tritton, Bart, to whom Norwood owes so much, not only for being for many years its representative in Parliament, but for his many charitable acts in the district.

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Opposite to “Bloomfield,” in the wood formerly known as the Great Sake Coppice Wood,” is the “Convent of the Faithful Virgin.” In the grounds is the interesting house here depicted. It was occupied by Mary Nesbitt, who sold it to the Earl of Bristol. Subsequently it came into the hands of a Mr. Crawley, who converted it into an hotel known by the name of the Park Hotel. It was a posing house charmingly situated. In addition, the River Effra then flowed by its side, running along the valley until it crossed the Norwood Road, West Norwood, to Croxted Lane, alongside of which it partly ran to near the Greyhound, Dulwich, and from thence through Water Lane and effra Road, Brixton, Kennington Church, and South Lambeth Road to its out=fall into the River Thames, near Vauxhall Bridge. “Effra,” is a corruption of the Celtic term “Yfrid,” or torrent; and it is reported tha inh 1879 this stream was much flooded, causing considerable damage to the property along its course.

About the year 1848 another change took place in the ownership of this property, it being purchased by Henriee le Forestier d’Osseville, a daughter of Count Theodore d' Osseville, a noble of Normandy, as an orphanage for Irish children then in London slums, who by the death of one or oth parents thorught he awfl Irish famine and subsequent visiation of cholera in 1847, were destitute and in great suffering and misery. I was in Mary Nesbitt’s house, a view of its present aspect I am, through the kindness of the present Reverend MotherSuperior, enabled to show you, that this work has begun, It was a curious fact that, although the front has been several times renovated, the name of Crawley of the hotel period still makes itself perceptible over the front entrance. Like all charitable institutions, more accommadation was required for the increasing number of destitute orphans. Subscriptions and donations being received, the first portion of the new building known as “the Convent of our Lady of the Orphans” was opened on the 24th September, 1857, and now under the devotion and care of the Reverend Mother and Sisters, some hundreds of female Roman Catholic children, including the little waifs and strays from the London work-houses south of the Thames, are carefully brought up and educated. In a little quiet spot in the garden can be seen a memorial stone and two graves. The stone is in memory of Henriette, the noble Foundress and first Mother Superior of this Orphanage; and the graves are respectively those of Bishop Michael Vesque, the first Chaplain of the Orphanage, and of Bishop Thomas Grant, the first Roman Catholic Bishop of Southwark.

In Elder Road, close by, two very interesting bits of old Norwood still remain in the shape of the two cottages, I am about to show you. One known as “Rose Cottage,” in the occupation of Mr. Philbrook, market gardener; and the thatched cottage known as “Boundary Cottage” near. Many people have the impression that these cottages are what is known as “Squatters Cottages,” but Mr. Philbrook informed me a few weeks back that the property belonged to the Ecclesiastical Commisioners.

Passing up Crown Hill we reach the northern end of Beulah Hill; and a little way up, at No. 105, stood a house called “Springfield,” at the corner of the rural lane known as Biggin Hill. The carriage drive, the gardener’s cottage, and the splendid cedar marking the site of the lawn only now remain, the house having, to the great regret of lovers of romance and Charles Dickens, been pulled down twelve months ago. A Mr. Townshend resided in it from about 1820 to 1850, and was fond of inviting the notable men of the day to visit him here; amongst them Charles Dickens was a frequent welcome guest,and in his fascinating book, David Copperfield, makes this house the scene where David is invited by Mr. Spenlow to spend a week-end, and where David falls desperately in love at first sight with Mr. Spenlow’s daughter, Dora. No one with any heart can refrain from loving the “Dora” depicted, the doting, kind, sensitive, impracticable “child – wife" - the “Little Blossom” – as Betsey Trotwood called her, that faded so soon away.

Just below “Springfield” in Biggin Hill, is “White Lodge,” where the late August Manns so recently died. On the opposite side is Mr. James Epps’ mansion “Biggin Wood House.” Visiting this spot last month I could hardly imagine myself so near to London, when I saw the number of wild rabbits that were contentedly feeding in the park. (I did not contemplate that the proprietor, Mr. Epps, the famous chocolate manufacturer, would be numbered “within the vale” on the 22nd of April, at the advanced age of 85 = Ed.)

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Knight’s Hill Road is practically a continuation of Beulah Hill, but it must not be confounded with “Knight’s Hill,” situate between Norwood Road and Croxted Road, near Tulse Hill Station. It carries us into West Norwood, formerly known as Lower Norwood, the original inhabited portion of the district in which we are interested this evening.

This picture shows you the baliff or Steward’s House upon Knight’s Hill Farm that Edward, Lord Thurlow, the then Lord High Chancellor of England, occupied in 1786 whilst his mansion on Knight’s Hill was being built. This house, although very much altered, I think can be identified as the residence known as “Thrurlow Park,” 377, Norwood Road, now occupied by Sir Hiram Amxim, whose fame is known to most of us, and whose portrait I have the pleasure of showing you. Sir Hiram Maxim showed me the stepping stone which Lord Thurlow used when mounting his horse. This view of Lord Thurlow’s mansion is the one that he caused to be erected for himself about the year 1789, but refused to occupy it and lived in the house I have already shewn you. Lord Chancellor Eldon is reported to have said “ Lord Thurlow built a house, he was first cheated by his architect and then he cheated himself. The house cost more than he expected, so he never would go into it.” A lady coming out of the Queen’s Drawing Room asked him when he was going into his own house. “Madam,” he said, “the Queen has just asked me that impudent question and as I would not tell her I will not tell you.”

Our next view is from an original drawing of the South Metropolitan Cemetery, popularly known as Norwood Cemetery, West Norwood, as it appeared about 1837, when the first internment took place. It had then an extent of about 50 acres, and was not crowded round with houses as it is at the present day. The two chapels, uilt by Sir William Tite, the architect of the Royal Exchange, London, are still familiar objects. In the right hand corner will be noticed St Luke’s Church the oldest church in all this district, erected in 1826.

In the pictures of old Norwood that I have lately shown, I find that they were described as being near the Horns.” This of course meant a public house, and thinking my audience would like to know something about it, I went in search of it. I found that the descendant of this historical building is the small public house in Knight’s Hill Road, still called The Horns Tavern, at the side of the railway bridge at West Norwood Station. The original house was a long, low wooden building, extending over the site of the present railway towards the Jew’s Hospital and Orphanage. There was a long row of elm trees (some of which I think still exist in the grounds of the hospital) under which hunters from the neighbouring woods used to sit and refresh themselves. A wooden hatch or gateway and palings surrounded the enclosure to prevent cattle, &c., encroaching. Towards the end of the 18th century the Horns was kept by Catley, a coachman, who was the father of Anne Catley, the singer, born in 1745. She is descried as being a beautiful woman, impudent, and eccentric; eventually she became the wife of General Lasceles, and died at his house, near Brentford, the 14th October, 1789.

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Making our way now towards Gipsy Hill, at No. 71 Gipsy Road, stood this cottage. Before it became “Rose Cottage Laundry,” it was an old hunting lodge in the woods. The Baptist Tabernacle has now been erected upon its site. Next door, No. 69, is “Ye Old Gipsy Public House.” It was between this house and the present Gipsy Hill Railway Station, in the then oak and hazel woods, that the celebrated Queen of the Norwood Gispies, Margaret Finch resided. Her cottage, of which this is a picture, was standing in 1808. The date of the gipsies settling at Gipsy Hill, from which the name of the place is derived, is unknown; but the celebrated Pepys speaks of them in his Diary in 1668.

From a rare old book printed in 1806, called “The Wonderful Museum and Magazine Extraordinary,” I learnt that the Queen of the Norwood Gipsies, Margaret Finch, whose portrait I am able to show you, was born in 1632, at Sutton, in Kent. She, after travelling many years, fixed her place of residence in Norwood, about eleven years before her decease, and was at that time a person of notoriety all over England. She attained the great age of 108 years. By her cinstant custom of sitting upon the ground with her chin resting upon her knees (generally with a pipe in her mouth and attended by her faithful dog or dogs), her sinew became so contracted that she could not extend herself or change her position, so that when she died her sorpse was forced to be crammed into a box sizeable to her usual posture, and therein conveyed in a hearse accompanied by two coaches to Beckenham churchyard, in Kent, where she was decently interred, and a funeral sermon preached on the occasion, in the year 1740. The expense of her funeral was defrayed by the neighbouring publicans, to whom she had been of great assistance, not by what she drank herself, but by the concourse of persons her wonderful appearance and great dexterity in telling fortunes drew to the spot, especially on Sundays.

Gipsy Hill was a favourite gipsy camping ground for many years – the families of the “Lee’s,” and the “Cooper’s,” being locally known: and near the site of Orford College, Victoria Road, was a spring or pool of pure water, which the gipsies especially made use of. In 1797 the Norwood Gipsy encampment was seized by the police, under the authority of an Act of Parliament.

North Wood and Dulwich Wood were contigious, and the turnpike or tollgate upon the main road is a relic of ancient days.

It was in Dulwich Wood Lane, near Fountain Lane, in the thickest part of the wood, that another remarkable personage, namely Matthews, the Dulwich Hermit, had his abode. He was a gardener by occupation, and became mentally deranged through he loss of his wife. About 1796 he otained permission of the Dulwich authorities to dig a cave in Dulwich Woods and erect over it a hut of mud covered with fern, furze and brambles. He was visited by many persons, out of curiosity, who gave him money. He was thought to be a miser, with the result that, in December, 1802, he was found in his cave, murdered. Seven years afterwards a man named Isaac Evans, on his deathbed, confessed to being one of the murderers.

Our circular itinerary now brings us to Sydenham at the foot of the North Wood, and I just show you a peep of the Sydenham Wells, first recorded in 1648.

In 1711 the wells were twelve in number, each nine feet deep, in which the water stood about half a yard. The dwelling in Wells Road associated with them was known as “The Green Dragon,” having for its sign a high post surmounted by a large gilt dragon. St Philip’s Church on the corner of Taylor’s Lane, now covers the site of the old wells. A notable shepherdess called “Poor Neville,” who died in 1814, used to bring her flock of sheep to the vicinity of these wells. She was well known through her dress, consisting of rope girdled coat, red petticoat, and high crowned beaver hat.

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We now come to the dominating feature of the whole locality, namely the Crystal Palace, the structure that above all others has created such a vast attraction to the whole neighbourhood. This originated from the grat exhibition of the works of industry of all nations. After much consideration and negotiation a public company purchased the structure for £75,000 and selected the present site for its , a contract being made with Messrs Fox & Henderson for carrying out the work of taking down, removing and re=erecting. How the site looked before the erection this picture shows. The house seen was known as Penge Place or Penge Park, Sydenham, and was occupied by Mr. Schuster. The cedar trees near the rhododendron valley marked the situation of the lawn. Of the old premises upon the estate, only two lodges remain, one on Anerley Hill at the refreshment contractors entrance near the South Tower, and the other, known as the gardener’s cottage, in the grounds near the before mentioned cedar trees. The latter lodge was by the side of the old public road that led from Dulwich to Penge, a portion of which still exists in the little narrow lane with the hedge on one side, that leads from the North Tower entrance to the maze. In order to include the residence known as Rockhills and this lane within the grounds, the Crysal Palace Company had to make the road designated Crystal Palace Road. In round figures, upon the authority of Sir Joseph Paxton, the whole undertaking cost £1,000,000.

The church seen in the view is St. John’s Church, Penge; and just below this in 1840 was the old Crooked Billet Inn, now replaced by a modern public hose of the same name. Some 80 years ago an old font, taken from Beckenham Church, was for a long time used as a cistern in the gardens of this Inn.

I am now able to show you a very unique set of slides, from photographs taken by authority, during the progress of the erection of the Crystal Paalce.

Delivering materials from Hyde Park.

The raising of the first Column, on the 5th August, 1852, before many thousand persons. Before lowering the column, Samuel Laing, Esq., M.P., the then Chairman of the Company, placed in the base socket a glass bottle containing coins of the realm and a parchment inscription of the event. Then whilst the column was being screwed in the base by the Chairman and other important personages, a royal salute was fired, and the Coldstream Guards played the National Anthem.

The erection of the first 24 feet compartment.

The first rib of the Nave, fitted October, 1852.

The South Water Tower. The roadway of Anerley Hill and the open country beyond should be noticed. The dwelling house on the left hand side is “Harefield,” No. 14, Anerley Hill. A portion of “The Hermitage,” No. 16, is also seen.

The South Wing = the corridor through which leads to the L.B. & S.C. Railway, Low Level Station. The preparation of the ground for the old Rosary is also discernible.

Making and placing the Antidiluvian Animals. Mr Waterhouse Hawkins was responsible for the creation of the series of these extinct animals. In this second view you see the antediluvian monster (the Iguanadon), in the interior of which he gave a select dinner party to 21 guests, on the 31st December, 1853.

The North End OF the building, with a view of the North Tower, and the excavations for the Reservoir. The North End of the building and the North transept are no longer in existence, they having been destroyed by a fire, at which I was present, on the 30th December 1866. The damage by the fire to the building and valuable contents was estimated at £150,000.

The North Tower Gardens have taken its place, and the Reservoir now presents this appearance.

The open Colonade facing the gardens. This is an unique picture, as it shows Sir Jospeh Paxton, the great Designer and Architect of the Palace, in the dress of the day, consulting with a colleague.

The forest of scaffolding then deemed necessary to erect the great ribs of the Centre Transept. Unfortunately even this was not secure enough as some of it fell resulting in the lamentable loss of 13 lives. A gravestone covering 11 of the victims is in the churchyard of St. Bartholomew, Sydenham.

A view of the Nave taken from the North End. In the foreground is the celebrated Monti Fountain, with the bronze figures of Mermaids, in course of erection.

A view of the Nave taken from the South End. Here in the foreground you will notice the commencement of the beautiful Crystal Fountain.

The military trophy that stood close to where the screen of the Kings and Queens of England now is.

The Entrance to the Egyptian Court.

The great seated Colossi copied from the exterior of the great Nubian Rock Temple built by Ramese II, at Abu Simbel on the Nile, above the first cataract. These gigantic figures as seated, were 72 feet in height, and on the space in front were 24 sphinxes in two rows. They sat in the central transept where the Royal boxes now are and were removed for the erection of the great stage, upon which the pantomimes and other performances used to be held.

Erecting the orchestra and Royal dais for the opening ceremony. Afterwards the Handel orchestra was constructed here in 1857.

The opening ceremony by Her late Majesty Queen Victoria on the 10th June, 1854, accompanied by the Prince Consort, the King of Portugal and the Royal childrenm one of them being our present King Edward VII.

The grounds in all their original full glory. You will notice that the North and South Towers, which rise to a height of 284 feet, have had conical roofs fitted dince. The water of the two great fountains, respectively known as “Victoria” and “Albert,” after the late Queen Victoria and the late Prince Consort, was forced to a height of 280 feet. During the first year of its opening 1,262,837 persons visited the Crystal Palace.

The front of the Palace facing in Crystal Palace Parade. The High Level Railway Station on the right hand side was commenced in 1863. Here in the distance we see the White Swan.” The point from which we started our tour, and therefore, having brought you safely back again, I will conclude with thanking you for your very kind attention.

ARTHUR A. SAWARD.

THE END.

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Mr Arthur A. Saward, who presided, requested (as there was much of interest to be got through during the time available) to introduce without comment the old residents who had so kindly come forward to relate to the large audience assembled their reminiscences. The old residents, Mr. W. C. Nicholls, Mr. H. Penny, Mr. W. G. Pringle, and Mr. E. Wheeler, having been respectively introduced, the Chairman stated that the first part of the evening’s programme would take the from of his asking questions to which the old residents would reply.

For the purposes of publication the replies are given in speech form

Mr. W. C. NICHOLLS, Stationer, Westow Street.

Mr Nicholls being first called upon, said:-

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I will give you the best I can of my reminiscences, and a very brief account of what Norwood was like. Before the Crystal Palace was built most of the roads in Norwood were very narrow, without paths, and lined with ditches. Anerley Road was but a lane, upon one side of which stretched a large wood, while on Westow Hill there was no house from Mr. Prime’s down to Roman Road. The roads constructed along the ridges of the hills were fairly level and on either side were green valleys such as South Vale and Lunham Road. A large pond existed behind the present Police Station and I recollect that a man and his only son unfortunately got drowned therein. At the top of Gipsy Hill it was proposed to erect a second windmill to that in Westow Hill but it is said they did not erect it as it was thought there was not enough wind to work the two. The Anerley Tea Gardens, near Anerley Railway Station, was a place of great resort, the people coming from London either on foot or by buses, the fair being 1/ A train could be taken to Anerley. Norwood Junction Station was formerly known as the “Jolly Sailor” and Forest Hill Station as the “Dartmouth Ams.” At Hamlet Road was an old public house called the “Ramblers Rest,” kept by a man who belonged to the Yeomanry, who always rode a beautiful grey horse. When the houses began to increase this inn was sold for £1,3000. Just beyond the “Swan,” where people used to get their water, no mains being laid in those days, there was a gunsmith, and many inhabitants were engaged in the now locally extinct trades of well sinking, charcoal burning and forest-wood cutting. An extinct institution, founded in 1812, was the school in Church Road, that was kept by Mr. Frederick George Aubin for poor children, and it was removed soon after the Crystal Palace came. Where the Congregational Church now stands there was a ship on which they used to train the boys for sea. Once a month, on Thursdays the boys in sailor costume, manned the rigging, and sang “God save the Queen.” They had an old cannon which once or twice a year they fired. On one occasion they blew the fence down. Candles were used in those days for lighting shops &c. and a Mr. Bridge, in Westow Hill, had a candle factory. They had one policeman who came from Camberwell. Many visitors came to pick nuts and blackberries in the woods. There were only two doctors living in Norwood then; Dr Reeves and Dr. Leese, who lived on Central Hill. Norwood was a very lonely place, and in the winter, every night at 10 o’ clock, Dr Leese used to fire a pistol t let people know he had firearms in the house. The roads were called after notable residents in them, and a curious thing he remembered was that in Rayner’s Hill, now known as Belvedere Road, he had to call at three houses, whose occupants were respectfully named “Duck, Drake and Swan.” Many people thought Norwood had seen its best days, but he did not think so. From Surrey and Vauxhall Gardens balloons were frequently sent up which travelled to Norwood - Green’s balloons being very well-known. One of them containing a pony in the car alighting near South Norwood Lake. His business had only chaged hands once in 75 years, and in looking over his shop he had found an old map of the district, and the Norwood Directory for 1838, containing the names of the local private residents and shopkeepers at that time.

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Mr. H. PENNY.

Mr Penny who gave his recollections in a most amusing manner said :

The first Post Office was situated at the top of Gipsy Hill and there were eleven men employed in the district. It was all walking in those days, there being no sub-offices; and he used to walk 18 miles a day for ten or twelve years. There were four delivieries a day, half past six, half past one, six o’clock and nine o’clock at night. The mails arrived by mail cart and came from Camberwell and Vauxhall. There were not many telegrams. The telegrams came to the nearest railway station, and the Post Office officials delivered them. One of the deliveries was down in South Norwood Hill and Whitehorse Road. The first pillar box in the district was at the corner of Church Road, near All Saints’ Church. He made the first collection from it. He was in the employ of the Post Office 41 years and nine months. In addition to his duties as postman he was appointed grave digger and sexton at All Saint’s Church on the 1st of September, 1859. At that time there was no other burial ground. He had helped to bury 1,600 people. Some of the most notable among them being Dr. Hetley, Admirals Fitzroy and Carey. The Vicars of All Saints’ Church during his time were Rev. James Watson, Rev. Oakley Coles, and the present Rev. W. Buckland Taylor. There were many footpaths in those days, one being along Church Road. He could only recollect one stile in Norwood, but that he remembered very well on account of it having a wagon wheel on one side for the people to get over – ladies as well as gentlemen used to get over this. He lived in Leatherbottle Lane, now called Spa Hill, this was so named because there was a public House there called the Leatherbottle.

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MR. W. G. PRINGLE, Nurseryman, Beulah Hill.

His earliest recollection of Beulah Hill was that it was a very narrow lane with a few shops, houses, and beer houses, one of which was known as the “Beulah Retreat.” It was here that local people obtained their beer and butter, but most of the shopping was done at Croydon Market. My father had a celebrated nursery in Beulah Hill in which he chiefly grew flowers and shrubs. The gardens have been in my father’s and my own possession 65 years. My father took it as barren land and cultivated it as far back as I can remember. There was not much greenhouse work then. The cheif things that were grown were trees, shrubs and roses. The prices realised for the trees and shrubs were 6d, up to 5/- each. There were no tomatoes or orchids grown here at time of day. My father and I grew for markets, principally Covent Garden. Sometimes we used to take the things by our own conveyance, but generally sent them by carrier, whose name was Howard. We used to deliver the flowers to the principal people in Norwood. The flowers most in demand in 1850 were roses, camellias and herbaceous plants, We sold many buttonholes to gentlemen passing on their way to the City, by bus or coach. Further along Beulah Hill were some tea gardens known as the Beulah Spa Tea Gardens, where performances were given, and sometimes a display of fireworks. At the top of Gibson’s Hill a woman kept a dairy, who went by the name of Mrs. Granger. This was the principal dairy in Norwood. Some of the old cottages down Gibson’s Hill can still be seen. The only school he remembered was All Saint’s School. It was here when as a boy he used to attend. The general holiday in each year was the Croydon Fair and he and others used to have a good time at it.

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MR. E. WHEELER, Wheelright, Westow Hill.

There were Tea Gardens and Common on the north side of Westow Hill, and on the south side there was a windmill. At the corner of Highland Road, where “The Highlands” now stands was the California Tea Gardens, where tea and anything else they pleased could be had. People were not then served by pretty waitresses but by anyone who could be obtained. Sundays was the most popular day for these tea gardens, because there was much more custom on that day than any other . Tea was very useful but very dear, and ranged from 4/- to 5/- per lb. There were two dame schools, one was kept by Miss Smith, No. 8 Westow Street. This was rather a large school for that time of day, and both boys and girls attended there, but there were more girls than boys. The other school was also in Westow Street, and was kept by Miss Brown. Soon after, another school was built, a national school, in Westow Hill, This building is still in existence and is used as a stable by Mr. Morter. The schoolmaster’s name was Mr. Dubber, and the mistress appropriately named Miss. Wise. The charge for attendance at this school was 6d. per week. The only holidays, in those days, were harvest holidays, and anybody who cared to go harvesting could do so, the neighbouring fields affording plenty of employment. There were a few shops in Westow Street. His father was proprietor of a forge in Westow Street, and this was struck one day by lightning. There were brickfields in Norwood. One of these was on the right of Gipsy Hill, not far from Camden Hill, and was owned by a Mr Corner. Another brickfield was near the High Level Station, and was owned by a Mr Cole who made the bricks and built houses, some of them being in Farquhar Road. This man also built his own house which was situated on a common at the back of Gipsy Hill Church. The price of groceries in those days were: sugar 5d a pound for the best Demerara, coffe 1/- a pound, and flour 10d. Butter was very dear, but milk cheap. There was only one tailor here, and his name was Arnold. He had so many orders that he could not do all the people’s tailoring, so many of them had to go to Croydon. The shops in Westow Street were (1st) a bootmaker’s then a corn chandler’s, followed by four private houses. After these greengrocer’s, linen draper’s, harness maker’s, and then his father’s shop. There was a private house at the top of Westow Street in which Miss Smith, the school teacher, lived. The two principal streets were Westow Hill and Westow Street. There were no newspapers or bicycles in those days. The Windmill was at the top of Gipsy Hill by the side of the Windmill Tea Gardens. The Windmill was kept by a miller whose name was Paddy, and who occupied the millhouse near by, a part of the house is still existing next door to Mr. Squire’s Printing Works. This windmill was stopped in the year 1853, and was pulled down soon after. The first and only Railway station in Norwood then was the Palace Station (Low Level).

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Congregational Church St. Aubyn's Road.

[Nick G]

Hi

I have part of a booklet of photos with some of the pictures on your site:

1 Crystal Palace
2 Westow Street
3 All Saints' Church
4 Christ Church
5 Beulah Spa and Hill
6 Gipsy Hill
7 Westow Hill
8 Queen's Hotel, Church Road
9 Belvedere Road
10 Weslyan Church
11 Recreation Ground
12 Interior of Crystal Palace
13 Anerley Hill
14 Congregational Church
15 Presbyterian Church

You have my numbered pics 3, 4, 5 (though slightly different name), 8, 12 & 14 would you like scans of the others or all of above?

Kindest Regards
Nick

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Go for it !